Thursday, October 3, 2024

Seoul (South Korea) Day 2: Guard Changing at Gyeongbokgung Palace + Tosokchon Samgyetang

 I had a better sleep yesterday with me going to bed at 11.30pm, woke up at 4.40am, then again at 6am and remained awake since then. It was already better compared to my previous trips.

I got out of bed at 8am to prepare for a full day out. While taking turns in the bathroom, I turned on the television to watch Pororo the Little Penguin.


We reached Gwanghwamun Gate at Gyeongbokgung Palace at 9.55am, just in time for the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony. The gate looked even more impressive than the one I had visited yesterday against the cloudless sky.

The area was packed with crowds after I entered the gate, with many eagerly waiting for the ceremony. Quite a number of people were dressed in hanbok, creating a captivating and vibrant scene.

The royal guard changing ceremony is held twice daily at 10am and 2pm, re-enacting the traditional guard changing procedure from the Joseon Dynasty.

It was so interesting to watch such a historic parade in the midst of a modern world. The rituals, vibrant hanbok and throbbing drumbeats filled the air with the spirit of centuries past.

The royal guards marched around the parade square, giving everyone a clear view of the ceremony. Watching the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony is highly recommended if you visit any palace, it is a sight not to be missed.

After the ceremony, we did not immediately enter Gyeongbokgung Palace but made our way out to Bukchon Hanok Village for breakfast. As we walked, we enjoyed scenic hill view, a sight I could never get tired of.

We passed by many hanbok shops when on the way. This area was the nearest to the palace, so many visitors chose their hanbok design from the shops here.


It took us 20 minute walk to reach Tosokchon Samgyetang near Seochon Hanok Village. This restaurant is famous for their Ginseng Chicken Soup, often drawing long queues during peak hours. As it was only 10.40am, we got a seat immediately upon arrival.

The restaurant had several dining areas and we were led to the most inner room, which was not yet full. The interior contained rich wooden elements, from tables and chairs to doors, creating a traditional ambiance.

The set included kimchi, radish and mineral water. They also had a container for us to dispose the chicken bones into it. 

I had Tosokchon Ginseng Chicken Soup at ₩20,000 (or S$19.67) which featured a whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, served in a rich milky broth infused with ginseng, pumpkin seeds, black sesame, jujube fruits and various other seeds. The meat was very tender, falling off the bone effortlessly.

The ginseng found in my soup. 
I liked that the ginseng flavour was subtle and not overpowering. The chicken had absorbed all the goodness from the broth, making it a nourishing dish to have for a cool day. This was going to be my best meal in Seoul.

The chicken roasting in process if you prefer roasted version. They also had white and black chicken options but I preferred the white chicken.

We finished our meal in exactly an hour at 11.40am and were shocked by the line forming outside the restaurant. I was so glad we came early, if not I probably not keen to join in the long queue.

Tosokchon Samgyetang
5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea
Operating hours: 10am to 10pm daily

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